![]() With a blast heater used to quickly bring up ambient air temps the same items will lag behind and remain icy to the touch for a long time after comfortable ambient temps are realized. This means items which one will be actually touching, like metal tools, equipment, etc will be comfortable to touch instead of like grabbing ice cubes. The great aspect of radiant floor heat is the fact the floor heats everything it comes in touch with. Heating a radiator as large as a concrete slab takes time! Keep in mind a forced air heater can be used to supplement the radiant floor heat, especially if opening and closing a large door, like an overhead door, will be occurring. In terms of expansion joints I dont know why someone would cut the joints with a saw instead of install the joints during the pour? I used a very thin plastic joint material instead of the traditional thick fibrous material and the end result is nearly invisible and a creeper, jack or cherry picker will roll across the joint effortlessly.Īs mentioned, the biggest downside, especially for an occasionally used work space, is turn around time. The edges are responsible for high heat loss unless insulated. ![]() But where many contractors drop the ball is on the edges of the slab. Insulation under the slab is essential to keep the heat from radiating into the ground instead of into your garage. If a worker accidentally punctures the tubing with a shovel, etc during the pour there will be a small "eruption" in the pour! A large coffee can or bucket can be used during such an occurrence to isolate the immediate area from concrete to be repaired and filled later.This is also a good troubleshooting technique to leak check the circuits before covering them with concrete. One little trick I used was to charge the circuit with air pressure while doing the pour. There are detailed considerations when laying out the tubing.Ĭoncentrating the coils in the areas of higher heat loss like under windows or doors is good practice. I did all the prep and brought in a crew to do the actual pour. I installed a heated floor when I poured my garage floor. A friend had a geo thermal heated floor in his garage and the contractor cut a water line rendering that circuit useless. There were a bunch of hairline cracks after curing but it was being covered with porcelain tile so didn't matter. The garage where my car is is 30x50 and the contractor chose to not saw cut it. Saw cutting is dangerous on a floor with water hose every few inches so the contractor needs to make provisions for this. It's a common practice to saw cut a concrete floor for controlled expansion cracks. I am fortunate to have my car in a garage with heated floor and its wonderful. With the combined effect of extra insulation under concrete when a heated floor is installed along with the heat source in the floor it makes for a nice dry environment with no moisture coming from the ground. With a heated floor you'll want to lay down on it and take a nap. Nice thing is no dust or noise created by forced air blowing. If you can set it at one temp and leave it there that's best. ![]() Not good if usage requires rapid heat up of the space.
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